鮫のすくめ

English Version

Features of “Same no Sukume” (Shark with Vinegared Miso)

A Tsugaru dish that “wraps” piping-hot meat in sweet vinegar miso

Flesh from boiled shark head (or cuts) is flaked and, while still hot, tossed with daikon or cabbage and a sweet vinegared miso. The mild meat takes on the tangy-sweet dressing, and you can enjoy a gentle, bouncy bite from cartilage. The name sukume is said to derive from “to wrap with vinegar,” and it’s also called “sugume” locally.

No-waste wisdom that remains a New Year staple

In days when fish was precious, heads and trimmings of shark were used fully. The dish took root as part of New Year fare in Tsugaru, where spiny dogfish (aburatsuno-zame) is commonly distributed.

Recipe

Ingredients (4 servings)

• Shark (e.g., aburatsuno-zame) … 400 g (boil head meat and flake while hot)
• Daikon … 300 g (either briefly blanched thin slices or coarsely grated 200 g)
• (Optional) Cabbage … 200 g (fine shred; massage with a little salt, squeeze)
• Scallion … to taste (thinly sliced)

Vinegared miso (guide)

• White miso … 60 g
• Vinegar … 3 tbsp
• Mirin … 1 tbsp (boiled to remove alcohol)
• Sugar … 1 tbsp (to taste)
• (Optional) Japanese mustard … a little

Instructions

1. Parboil the shark: Bring a pot of water to a boil, add the head or cut pieces, and simmer gently 10–15 minutes until the flesh separates easily. Drain, cool just enough to handle, then separate bones/cartilage/skin and flake the meat into large pieces (finely chop soft cartilage if adding).
2. Prep vegetables: For daikon slices, blanch 10–20 seconds and pat dry. If using grated daikon, drain lightly (don’t over-squeeze). For cabbage, salt-massage and squeeze well.
3. Make the dressing: Stir together white miso, vinegar, boiled-off mirin, sugar (and mustard if using) until smooth.
4. Toss: Put the hot shark flakes in a bowl and coat with half the dressing. Add daikon (slices or grated) and cabbage/scallion, then fold in the remaining dressing. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Chef’s Tips

• Toss the meat with dressing while it’s still hot so flavors penetrate well.
• If aroma is strong, add a few ginger slices or a splash of sake to the boiling water.
• Daikon works both sliced and grated; with grated, avoid squeezing too dry for a better mouthfeel.

Nutritional Value (per serving, approx.)

• Calories: ~160–230 kcal
• Protein: 18–25 g (from shark)
• Fat: 4–8 g
• Carbohydrates: 8–16 g

High in protein and relatively low in fat; daikon or cabbage adds dietary fiber.

History

A New Year classic grounded in Tsugaru’s shark-eating culture

Shark has long been part of the Tsugaru table. “Same no Sukume,” especially using head meat of aburatsuno-zame, is a seasonal regular at New Year. The etymology points to “wrapping with vinegar,” and some households mix in grated daikon instead of slices.